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Shutka, Macedonia - Roma Portaits - >

Shutka, Macedonia 2008

What's in a name?

'Up the road, at the crossroads turn left, after 1km when it starts to get dirty and gypsies are dancing in the street... then your in Shutka.'

Amused and concious of my own prejudice these were the directions given to me at a garage on the outskirts of Skopje when I first visited the largest Roma settlement in Europe known locally as Shutka.

Skopje, capital of the former Yugoslav republic of Macedonia, is the birth place of Agnese Gouxha Bojaxhiu who you may not know by her Albanian family name, but I'm sure you would be well aware of her chosen name, Mother Teresa.
Next year would have been the 100th birthday of this remarkable woman, to commemorate this she is soon to be established as a Saint. With sainthood becoming a foreseeable reality, possessive claims have been reignited between Macedonia and neighbouring country Albania over Mother Teresa's nationality.
The ongoing friction between the two countries over this is rooted in the shifting of borders that has occurred within Mother Teresa's life time. Agnese was born in Skopje when it was part of the Ottoman empire, but by the time she left for India, arguably 'becoming' Mother Teresa, it had become part of Yugoslavia. Keeping this and her Albanian roots in mind there remains a contentious debate between the two countries.

While visiting Macedonia I remember reading one of her quotes in the newly built Mother Teresa Museum, it read; 'The poor are all around us; the lonely, the unwanted...Do kind and good to those near you.' After reading this letter I walked into the main square which I had done many times already, but this time more aware of the two young children asking passers-by for money. My attention was fixed on their appearances that differed from the rest of Skopje's inhabitants. Obviously they wore dirty, ragged and ill fitting clothes - but physically their appearance was different too. Their skin was darker and their eyes were deep - it even seemed that the way they moved had a different rhythm.

'They're gypsies...Roma' I was later told.

The word 'gypsy' commonly used to describe Roma people is familiar and easy to reciprocate, yet unnecessary and ironic if you are to consider the reasons why Mother Teresa is to become a Saint. This gave me, the ever increasing Mother Teresa groupie, a need to understand what is known about the notoriously unknown Roma.

The reason for this lack of cultural knowledge lies in the lack of documented History. It is however becoming understood that Roma originated from northern India. But the stereotypes of gypsies curses, wild music, drinking and fighting and an unwillingness to fully integrate into society far outweigh anything positive. It seems Roma have been typecast to mystery.

If I wanted to find out more I was told to visit Shutka, a place where the traditionally nomadic Roma people have settled and settled in large numbers. It was in Shutka when I met Tefik Manhunt, a 19 year old Law student and life time resident of Shutka who was born in Skopje.

I met Tefik on the street where he was hanging out with friends and neighbours. The day just gone had been international Roma day which was also a celebration of a Roma MP being elected to the Macedonian parliament.

Hardly fitting my pre-conceded image of a young Roma, Tefik was well built, with styled hair and dressed in a shirt and tie. With well spoken English he introduced himself. He asked what I was doing in Shutka and he invited me to spent the day with him and his friends. We spoke at length about discrimination, poverty, education and above all the image of Roma people, addressing the root of their social exclusion to gain an understanding of the best way to work towards Roma inclusion.

'I don't call myself or the Roma people gypsies because we are Roma, this is simple... You'd find yourself having a better interview if you respected that', he smiled, and continued; 'I believe in god and I'm scared of god... In front of god we are all equal. We are not born prejudiced so I believe such things can and should be changed'

I Asked Tefik if he felt that Roma people were socially excluded from society; 'Definitely! in many parts of our life... There is no one to help about that!'

Education then became a topic; 'Globally the Roma education is very limited our levels of education are low. Firstly, many Roma have no self-confidence, secondly most Roma come from poor families and thirdly we don't have consistent help... Teachers and books come and go.'

I asked if Tefik had any opinion on the newly elected Roma MP, he said; 'He's treated like a joke. He's not educated and he is the stereotypical gypsies...I'm Roma, educated and able. I want to try my best and work hard to change these misrepresentation's of my people's image to level out the time where we can be included into the society in which we live, not just Roma but Macedonian'

'I love to study law to have knowledge about our rights. In the future I'd like to gain the power, infuse Roma into this country. Its true that most people think Roma cant do anything except stealing, fighting on the street or look for money in traffic cleaning windscreens, that they couldn't be educated people or education would be wasted. We have an unusual culture, history and talent we have a lot to offer...I'm optimistic, I'd like Roma people to be treated like equals. I'd like for our culture to be treated without discrimination.'

'I like a lot of things', he grinned. I smiled and asked what he thought could be done for his people to achieve acceptance...Tekif nodded and continued with passion; 'There are many things that could be done but lets start with education and educate Roma's voice.'

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